Cycling along unpaved paths
Today I experienced great pleasure in the peacefulness of rural Laos while taking a countryside trip around Vang Vieng. I rented a bicycle in the morning and drove to the Tham Chang cave, along unpaved paths. When I finally reached the cave, I had to climb 150 steps to reach the entrance of the cave. Unlike previous caves I had visited, this one did not have any Buddha statues but instead was filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Surprisingly, I found the journey to the cave more enjoyable than actually exploring the contents of this full-sized cave.
Crossing a creaking wooden bridge
Afterward, the adventure really kicks off. I have to cross a wooden bridge to the other side of the Nam Song river, looking for the next cave, the Tham Phu Kham. The bridge is old and creaks with every meter I pass. It sways unsteadily as the wind blows. I can feel my heart pounding with excitement and a little bit of fear.
Around Vang Vieng: countryside trip amidst scorching temperatures
It is still morning time, and even though I cycle at a leisurely pace, I am sweating heavily. Despite feeling tired and tempted to quit, the breathtaking scenery motivates me to push through. The distance to the cave is approximately 7 kilometers, but the stunning views compel me to persist and continue my countryside trip around Vang Vieng.
An unlit cavern with a sitting Buddha
At the cave checkpoint, I find it strange that I have to pay an entrance fee, without receiving a ticket. There is nobody else around to confirm if it is official. I make my way up a narrow trail through the dense forest to reach the cave entrance. In order to enter, I have to crawl across some large rocks, leading me into a dark, unlit cavern. It is all a bit unsettling. With the built-in light of my mobile phone, I steadily continue onward. My persistence pays off as I am rewarded with a breathtaking and extraordinary view of a sitting Buddha inside the cave.
Some noodle soup at a local food stall
This discovery makes this journey completely satisfying. Satisfied with my visit to the rural area around Vang Vieng I cycle back to the city. Shortly before I have to cross the wooden bridge again, I eat a bowl of noodle soup at a local food stall. Despite the unattractive appearance of the eatery, the noodle soup provides a dining experience comparable to that of a 5-star meal.
Lack of local identity in Vang Vieng
The city of Vang Vieng itself does not have any unique qualities or character. It is merely a cluster of establishments aimed at pleasing tourists – a bar followed by a restaurant, souvenir shops, and booking offices. What is even worse is the complete disregard for the local culture by the tourists. It is not uncommon to see boys walking around shirtless or girls in bikinis on the streets. Although the residents seem to tolerate this behavior, it feels somewhat out of place considering the cultural traditions of this charming country. There is no doubt that Laos is not as lost to tourism as Thailand, but when you visit a destination like Vang Vieng, you start questioning this statement.
Sipping Lao beer at an open-air bar
After dinner, I search for a nice bar. In the distance, I hear the beats boom, but I am really not into that. I enter an open-air bar in the adjacent restaurant where the atmosphere seems more refined. A DVD with a Jimi Hendrix performance is shown on TV. The bar owner serves me two shooters of booze, strong stuff. Instead of risking a repeat of the previous incident a couple of days ago where I ended up outside my room, I just drink two bottles of Lao beer and then leave the bar.
A bit of an artificial atmosphere
I walk around the city for a while, but I detect little enthusiasm. Despite my belief that there must be more to explore, I eventually return to my room. I can not get rid of the impression that people are trying to create an artificial atmosphere in this city. Fortunately, I had a delightful excursion to the countryside around Vang Vieng earlier today. And I am eagerly looking forward to returning to Luang Prabang tomorrow.
