flooded Hung Vong street in Hue while waiting for the sleeper bus

Uneasy sleeper bus to Ninh Binh

Conversation with two professors

Early in the morning, I departed on a bus, heading back towards Hue, where I will have a layover for one day before boarding the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh.  In the middle of a short break, two elderly Vietnamese join me for a conversation. One of them is a geology professor, while the other specializes in environmental studies. We carry on and end up having a captivating conversation about Catholicism versus Buddhism.

Furthermore, I get an explanation of Ninh Binh. Their families reside there. The people in Ninh Binh have a strong sense of community and are known for their hospitality and welcoming nature. Most sights are near the city, and the effects of the recent typhoon no longer form a threat to stay there.

Plenty of time to kill before taking the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh

In Hue, I get off the bus, and I am overwhelmed by a troop of cyclo and motor drivers. I resist their offers and hire a cyclo to drive me to the hotel of my choice. Upon arrival, I promptly book a reservation for the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh tomorrow night. Today and most of tomorrow will be a bit of wasted days, as I have already extensively explored everything of interest.

house entrance at Imperiral City in Hue

A discussion about Catholicism

Around five o’clock in the afternoon, I take a walk along the quay of the Perfume River. As soon as I sit down, a student approaches me with a request to have a conversation. His name is Loï; he has attending college for three years, aiming to become a teacher by completing his English studies. I soon discover that he is deeply religious, so I pretend to be Catholic. However, when I mention that I never go to church, he struggles to comprehend my perspective.

wall decoration at Imperial Site in Hue

Stuck in the hotel for a significant portion of the day

After this conversation, I dine, and as it is lovely terrace weather, head down to a bar where I stick around for quite some time. The next morning the beautiful weather has disappeared. Since early in the morning, the rain has been pouring down. So, it seems I am stuck in the hotel’s lobby for most of the day. The sleeper bus to Ninh Binh leaves at 6 pm.

Flooded main street but life continues

girl making incense in Hue

In the afternoon, the sewers can no longer control the water; the roads turn blank. However, the Vietnamese people carry on with their daily lives unaffected: cyclists, motorcyclists, and cyclo drivers are driving through the flooded streets. As soon as the rain stops and the water in the streets recedes slightly, I seize the opportunity to venture out for a substantial lunch.

The journey back to the hotel afterward goes pretty well, except for the final 100 meters on Hung Vong Street, which is fully flooded again. While I am waiting, the cyclo driver with whom I have been talking earlier this morning at the hotel’s door shows up. He kindly offers to give me a ride back to the hotel for free.

Wading across the street to reach the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh

Hue: waiting for the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh in the rain

The trip with the sleeper bus to Ninh Binh will turn out to be one not to forget quickly or the opposite, depending on one’s perspective. For starters, when they pick me up (with a regular bus), they stop at the other side of the flooded street. Therefore, I roll up my pants and wade through the water. Despite successfully keeping my shoes dry throughout the day, this short transition to the other side of the street, which only takes about 15 seconds, puts an end to that.

Sleeping compartments made for the Vietnamese

A few minutes later, we have to change into the sleeper bus. The bus is divided into narrow compartments, a little too small and cramped. You slide your feet into a kind of collection bin. At first glance, this system seems acceptable, were it not that the compartments are specifically designed for Vietnamese people, but primarily used by tourists.

As a result, slightly larger people like me can barely move, finding it challenging to move your feet, while experiencing discomfort in your buttocks after an hour of driving. It seems I won’t be able to sleep comfortably. However, in my case, this may not be entirely undesirable since I need to disembark in Ninh Binh rather than reach the final destination, Hanoi.