Rural Lampang: a tranquil town

ritual at temple in Lampang

No issue to leave your backpack unattended

The tuk-tuk driver from the guesthouse brings me to the Arcade bus station. As I still have to buy a ticket inside, my bag is left alone and unguarded. The driver appears unconcerned and assures me it will be fine. I decide to trust him, as it seems leaving your belongings unattended is common practice in Thailand. I quickly purchase my ticket to rural Lampang from his wife, who works here at the cash counter. I am relieved knowing that my bag was safe while I was away.

After the bus attendant puts my backpack in the storage compartment, I sit on the opposite side of the bus. The area where the luggage is kept stays accessible until the bus leaves. Within a few moments, I find myself in danger of misplacing my bag again.

The actual reason for visiting Lampang province

The journey itself is quite comfortable, with a well-maintained bus and air conditioning that keeps us cool despite the hot weather outside. Underway, we pass the Elephant Training and Conservation Center, my goal for tomorrow, and the real reason for my stop in rural Lampang. Along the way, we traverse the picturesque landscape of Northern Thailand, which is characterized by numerous rice fields, corn and sugarcane plantations, and tiny hamlets. An hour and a half later, I arrive at my destination.

Learn about the natural behaviors of elephants

The Elephant Training and Conservation Center is focused on teaching and preserving the natural behaviors of elephants and is one of the main Lampang tourist attractions. It is a place where elephants are trained using positive reinforcement techniques, rather than through punishment or abuse. The center also serves as a sanctuary for elephants that have been rescued from difficult or harmful situations, such as those used in the logging industry or for street begging. Visitors to the center can learn about and observe these magnificent animals in a safe and educational environment

Finding a place to stay in rural Lampang

typical house in rural Lampang

No troop of touts this time trying to lure newly arrived tourists to their guesthouse, so I am left to navigate the city on my own. A man points me to a songthaew that drives to the city center. My backpack lies on the roof. Without a proper map of the city, I cannot orientate myself clearly. However, the driver eventually notifies us that we have reached the city center.

Carrying both a large and small backpack, I begin my search for accommodations in the vicinity of the Wang River. I end up at a hostel constructed entirely of teak wood, drenched in sweat after 20 minutes. The rooms are compact yet tidy and equipped with a bathroom.

The temple on my wishlist is closed

bodhi tree in front of temple

There is one temple in Lampang that I wish to visit, Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao, in the north of the city. To get a good impression of this city, I go there on foot. Lampang is significantly more rustic compared to Chiang Mai, hardly touristy, with typical wooden architecture, such as the guesthouse where I am staying. As I make my way towards the northern part, I come across three temples. All of them appear to be closed, including the one I specifically wanted to visit. I don’t dwell on it too much and begin my return journey.

Ceremony with men running over hot coals

Because I am getting exhausted, I decide to return to my guesthouse. I notice the sound of a kettle coming from a temple nearby and become curious. There is an ongoing ritual ceremony where a group of men is beating small gongs or cymbals. After a brief period of time, something else happens; smoldering coals are scattered on the temple’s front yard. Following a blessing ritual, several men dash over the hot coals towards the temple, a rather impressive view. Capturing the event on camera poses no issue at all.

temple ritual in rural Lampang

Plenty of mosquitoes near the river

Back in the guesthouse, I take a shower, for the first time this trip with hot water. I try to relax a bit on the bed. Immediately I start to feel itchy at my feet. The guesthouse is located nearby the river; in other words, there are plenty of mosquitoes. Or could they be lice, bugs, fleas, or other pests? Despite applying mosquito repellent, I still get bitten a few times by these insects. It is quite disappointing because I wanted to enjoy reading a book outside during my stay in rural Lampang. Even in my room, the mosquito netting on the doors and windows doesn’t seem to be effective.

scenery at Wang river

Enjoying a local northern Thai dish for dinner

In the evening, I have dinner at the restaurant of the guesthouse, situated at a distance of 200 meters on the adjacent street. I order local northern Thai food; steamed chicken with lime and a side of rice. Since I cannot tolerate anything too spicy, I requested that the Thai maid tell the cook how to prepare it accordingly.

Live music with Western covers

Every evening a live music band performs in this restaurant; again – a common occurrence in many parts of Thailand – Asians playing covers of Western songs. Their performance is of decent quality on this occasion. The dish I am having has a mild level of spiciness, making it easy to enjoy eating this local cuisine. But the chicken has been prepared the Asian way; which entails retaining the bones and cutting them into smaller pieces afterward. As a result, I must chew on the bones despite my reluctance. Despite this, the food is delightful.

Doubt about moving to rural Lampang

After dinner, I decide to enjoy Lampang nightlife a bit and drink two Singha beers. However, my thoughts begin to linger on whether or not I should have stayed a bit longer in Chiang Mai instead of moving to rural Lampang. I attempt to motivate myself with a mantra I learned earlier today; actions that have already been taken cannot be reversed. As I step out, I notice a group of tourists taking pictures of the skyline. I stand beside them for a while, admiring the view before heading back to my hotel.

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