A satisfactory explanation at the Information Center
No need to mention, I will be visiting the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary today, as that is the main attraction here in Kumily. After breakfast – sweet cakes with a glass of tea at a street stall – I start my search. I inquire at the Tourism Police Department Information Center. In fluent English, they explain about the nature reserve. The boat trip at 2 pm seems to be the best option. Further, the Information Center advises to make a plantation trip in the vicinity; they elaborate in detail with which bus, where to get off, and so on. But I have to watch out for alleged guides.
Getting approached by a guide
On foot, I head in the direction of the Periyar Nature Park. The entrance is four kilometers from the city center. After paying the entrance fee, I start to walk the next kilometers to the mooring place of the boat. After fifteen minutes, a woman in a car-rickshaw passes by; I can join the ride for a small amount. I already suspect what this is going to turn out to be, some offer to guide, but I hop in anyway.
It turns out my suspicions were correct. The woman is indeed a guide, she presents her portfolio of references and suggests purchasing a ticket for the 4:00 PM boat trip because the 2:00 PM one is already fully booked according to her.
Buying my ticket for the boat excursion in Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
In the meantime – before 4:00 PM – she can take me to some plantations. I do not agree immediately, because I first want to check which boat is still available. It turns out to be correct; there is only room left at 4:00 PM. I buy a ticket for the lower deck; after all, it looks like it will rain later in the day. Then I have to decide whether I accept the plantation trip. Mary Magdalena asks 350 rupees. I know the prices are around 300 rupees, so I agree. It seems an excellent option to fill the time before the boat trip.
My unofficial guide keeps a low profile
We drive out of Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and start climbing a hill in a put-put. The ride feels like it is never-ending, so I ask how long it will be before we arrive at our destination. It turns out that we still have another three kilometers to go. When we take a small road, a police jeep approaches from the other direction and stops to look at our rickshaw occupants. The driver and the guide keep a low profile, Maria is of course not an official guide, that was clear from the start. When we drive further, she tells me they checked the rickshaw’s license plate. I reply that I know that there are official and unofficial guides.
Visiting a waterfall covered in fog
Shortly after we arrive at our intended destination. Initially, we visit a waterfall. However, due to the dense fog, my only perception is the sound of the water flowing. That is quite disappointing considering the travel guide promised a stunning view. We continue our journey to explore some plantations, although it seems exaggerated to refer to them as plantations. You will find herbs just about everywhere on this hill; I can smell and occasionally even sample flavors like coffee, pepper, cardamom, and cloves. Cocoa fruits are also shown to me.
Arriving soaking wet at the docking location
On the way back, we stop in a hillside village to drink tea, at my expense, that goes without saying. I have an hour and a quarter before the boat leaves, more than enough to continue on foot, about five kilometers. Shortly afterward, however, a big bummer emerges; a tropical rain shower and not a single rickshaw in the vicinity, of course. However, I persevere because I already have a ticket for the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in my pocket. I arrive soaking wet at the boathouse. My visit to the Ghats is a little too early in the season, that is clear, and being near the mountains brings about frequent rain showers.
Periyar Nature Park is also a tiger reserve
Fortunately, when we board the boats (five in total), the rain ceases. The many Indians who are present push and shove to secure their seats, while the previous passengers have yet to get off. Clearly a lack of consideration. I patiently wait for my turn. I don’t have high expectations for the boat trip. The travel guide states that the large number of visitors, in combination with the noise from the boats, is not such that it lures animals to the lake. Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is a tiger reserve, but those animals keep their distance from any crowd.
Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is the sole location in India with wild elephants
Overall, the visit is relatively decent. Initially, we notice a kind of wild pig, followed by a pair of. And then the icing on the cake comes. On the shore, there are five wild elephants; there are three large, one medium, and one small species. It is truly amazing to witness this and it makes the journey worthwhile. A few minutes later, we spot four elephants on the other side, only adults this time. It is breathtaking to see one of the animals throwing mud over its back using its trunk; perhaps this is their way of pampering themselves?
Spotting some birds but the wild elephants stay in my memory
As we make our way back to the mooring spot, we catch a glimpse of various bird species. However, it is the majestic wild elephants that will forever be etched in my mind. Periyar Nature Park is believed to be the sole haven in India where these immense creatures still exist freely.
Another tropical rain shower on my way back
Once back on the mainland, I start my retreat at a steady pace. It is not possible to arrange transport from here; I should have made arrangements for this beforehand. When I leave Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, the rain starts to fall once more, and upon reaching the hotel, the rain is pouring down heavily. So I get soaked for the second time today.
A tasteless dinner after today’s hardships
After putting on dry clothes, I head to the hotel’s dining room and request a bowl of soup, chicken with bamboo shoots and rice. The food, which I was looking forward to after the hardships of today, is downright tasteless. There is hardly any chicken in it; with some effort, I find five pieces hidden beneath the vegetables. In Kumily or Periyar, tourism has yet to blossom. While it definitely has its own charm, I don’t believe there is enough here to warrant staying longer than a day or two. Therefore, tomorrow I will pack my bags and move towards Alleppey.
